Post #28 Kratie

Day 35 1045 days to go. Distance: last 2 days: 200km total 1778km. It’s 9.00am Wednesday the 4/1/2011 Kratie. Hi hi hi. It’s been yonks since Ive managed to update you and finally get a chance now this morning at a cafe I found with wifi. Last night I tried the internet cafes but the speed is is not worth trying to upload or update then I saw this place on the way back to the guesthouse. So for $ 1.50 (r 6000) I have firstly enjoyed a great skype with my partner and bow get to chat with you fine folk. Welcome to Cambodia or as my sister commented this morning – flying high in Cambodia, more about that in a moment. Thinking back to yesterday it was such a mix of events. Firstly logistics and what’s been happening the last days. I crossed the border Monday morning and the transit went smooth enough even had my temperature checked lol. It was another 55km cycle onto Stung Treng. The countryside was all agricultural with villages growing this long tubular white root vegetable like a turnip. They sit by the roadside peeling and cutting it up in like roasting sized pieces then lay it out in 1 meter wide lengths on the side of the road still on the tarmac to dry. With the humidity and heat its like a dry roasting and the smell coming off the road was amazing like a christmas roast yum. How resourceful. The village folk are all welcoming again sooooo many children saying ‘hello’ with me answering hello in kamer (Cambodian) Sau S’dei. Stung Treng was really cool and a great intro to Cambodia – much more high wired and intense. People are different still welcoming but there’s a change perhaps with more recent oppression the residual is still near and reflective in the psyche. Not sure. The markets were wild with stall people hanging in hammocks elevated behind a bench of what they were selling allot of cut up pig, exotic fruits, vegetables, sticky rice in bamboo, coconuts, watermelon/pineapple, mangos etc. It was good to have a wonder and get a first sense of the place. I met some really fun people at the guesthouse firstly a group from UK and Ireland who were heading up now to Loas so we were able to exchange some stories. They all gave me their contact details and invited me to stay when I’m in that part of the world which was so lovely and generous. I later met a couple of cyclist a Dutch guy living in Aukland and a girl from the states living and teaching English in Ho Chi Min. Again they were heading up to Loas and had just covered the area I do now following the Mekong from Kratie to Phenom Phen. It was awesome to exchange some cycling tips and really helpful. They gave me their travel books and maps/written out key phrases like ‘where’s the ferry’ really important at one stage tomorrow where the turnoffs easily missed. I headed off yesterday for a long haul between Stung Treng and Kratie (141km). This was such a twist of events for the day. Earlier I was feeling cranky of sorts about the touristed volume of ‘hellos’ being bellowed literally from children. I was making sure I answered in Kamer and waved but it was anoying me for some reason. Mostly the day was seeing much like I had on the road into Stung Treng and I was getting through the KMs which was going all good. Then at about the 90 km point Rube and I went through a patch of gravel that was really deep and her front tyre cut in and sent me flying over the handle bars. Impressive ‘A flying start to Cambodia’ I landed hard and bruised my left palm with a bit of bark off but otherwise we both are ok. The ironic thing is that the people from the few village huts about came out picked me up checked over my injuries and reassured me everything was ok. Now that’s a warm welcome to the Cambodian folk. As I was psyching up to get back on Rubes and do the last kms this truck came past and stopped to see if I was ok and offered to take me to the Kratie turnoff saving me some 30kms. So within 5 minutes I dais my sincere thankyous to the villagers and was sitting in the front of the truck Rube riding in the back (she loved it with all her very cool scratches) and we giggled and exchanged stories for the distance. The guys were lovely fun gave me a medicated oil for my scratches, water and an egg x Thankyou thankyou thankyou. at the junction I cycled the remaining `10km into Kratie found a guesthouse (5 USD), cleaned and iced my bruised bits and was sitting on the Mekong waterfront for sunset nice nice very nice. I felt a bit weird about what a mixed day it had been and I realized how very fortunate I am that it ended so well and today can be another day forward. It was also an extra reminder to stay vigilant on the road and how easily circumstances can change. Anyway all is good and today is another day. Started of beautifully with a skype with my partner and now off following more contry roads for 4 days into Phenom Phen. I apolgise for no photos but will upload later with better access. Meanwhile Ill be offline except for spot tracker over these days but very excited about following some quieter raods. I met a couple of Dutch ladies earlier who are doing the same cycle as me today so we have a dinner date later at Chong the small place on 40kms away nice. Until next time stay safe as we sill endeavor to do. Talk soon x