shecyclesolo

Day 66 1014 days to go. Distance: today 41km total 3752km. It’s 8.53pm Saturday 4/2/2012 Hue. What a cool city. Lonely planet describes Hue as the intellectual, cultural and spiritual heart of Vietnam. Hue is split along the Song Huong (Perfume) River. The south bank is about cuisine and entertainment. The north side is all about the citadel remains, tombs and temples. The empirical city was built in 1800. It’s walled and moated and has an imperial enclosure and forbidden city. The area has been world heritage listed and it’s extremely grand. Given it’s not that old it has however survived the war and is clearly treasured. It’s very spectacular to ride around the well groomed grounds. The crumbling remains of the outer old city wall has been built around by outer villages and it looks great with homes and chickens living amongst the rock wall. This is outside the touristed area but has a road all way round. Rube and I peddled it today and it was really interesting to slowly check out. Obviously the inner citadel area is mostly visited and is very grand. We got some good pickies. There’s lots of outer funky districts very arty and full of young folk and families and heaps of students. It’s still all part of the ‘old town’ so the bars and hang outs are amongst the old buildings and add to the charm. That’s a good word to describe Hue, it’s charming and very tasteful and atmospheric for a well touristed city. Boats potter along the river and you can do cruises along the river to emperors tombs which are dotted along the river side for about 15kms. So it’s definitely worth adding to the ‘to do’ list if you want to travel to Vietnam. The ride here this morning was dry after early rain which cleared and I took the opportunity to cover the 40 so kms. I found a really great hotel $10 great price with all the facilities and wifi. It even has a bath which I indulged in this afternoon sooooooo delish. Theres a supermarket about 50m down the road. Do you think I’m happy? So I’ve topped up on food supplies and bought 2 baked Vietnamese deserts for dinner with a hot chocolate yum. I’ve got a nice tummy now backing up from hoi an so the reserves are good for the next cycling stage. I havnt yet heard how the birthday party went. The family are probably sleeping it off under a palm frond and will wake thinking they are in noosa. I went to adjust Rubes brake and gear cables today as they’ve been a bit dodge traveling down the passes the last days. Both brake cables broke when I pulled at them with the pliers opsy happy it was here and not traveling down a wee hill. I asked the hotel man if there was a bike shop showing him Rubes cables and he told me to wait upstairs and he’d sort it. About 30minutes later Rubes got new brake cables threaded for $1. They still need adjusting but I can do that. A friend commented recently that Rube will tell me when she’s needing some attention so I’m taking the opportunity to get her gear cables changed as well tomorrow and give her some TLC. I also want to find an internet and see more of the city so I’m happy to stay another day and an awesome hotel and city to do so. I did some itinerary map and planning tonight and have sorted the days leading up to crossing the Chinese border, freaky hey the thought of China. For now it’s very much still Vietnam and some amazing places to check out now heading to the northern area. I also have found some camping places in Cuc Phuong National Park 45km south of Ninh Binh and on Cat Ba island in Halong Bay so very excited about that. Bonus today having a bath to wash out the wet stinky clothes and they’re hanging out on the top floor for some serious airing. The view from the top floor balcony is awesome 360 degrees of the city. The architecture is very French and I got some cool shots tonight of the city lights. You’ll be very happy to know that I no longer have the hippy hairy legs and pits and am baby bottom smooth instead with no threading needed yayayayayaya. For now it’s to bed. Talk soon x

 

Day 65 1015 days to go. Distance today 67km total 3711km. It’s 6.40pm Friday 3/2/2012 Phu Loc. Oh my goodness it’s so wet. Let’s just say the place I’m staying is somewhat different to the resort and spa in Hoi An but it’s dry yay and so am I double yay. It’s rained for most of day and has made for some chilly descents on the three passes I crossed. I’ve worked pretty hard for the 67km given the weather and ascents. My fingers and toes are so pruney from being wet all day they look 100 years old now and really funny typing up my post. But rain aside I’ve had a fun day. I went to a cafe first up this morning and sent my sister an email for her birthday and uploaded the post over a vietnamese coffee. It’s like an iced expresso with condense milk and after the shock of the strength it’s actually quite delish served with hot green tea. The beach party celebrations in Munich will be well underway now and I wouldn’t mind being beamed up there to share the festivities with the family. As an alternative I bought my sisters and I porcelain beaded bracelets from a roadside stall at the top of the Hai Van Pass (500m). I was enjoying a coffee at the stall when the bracelets got my attention. They’re really sweet and I even bartered which is a rare deal for me and not a forte. Instead of $10 for one I got 3 for $15 which is probably far more then they’re worth but hey it’s a special occasion. My sisters bought us matching pendents as a safe trip gift before me leaving. The bracelets aren’t as elegant as the pendents but it’s nice to share something between us to bridge the distance at a time of wanting to be together. I’ll give them to Ma and Pa in Beijing to forward them on and as always I am with them in spirit with all my love. Hope you are having great fun celebrations xx. Heading out of Danang this morning there was this tiny roadside food with one table and chairs stall serving noodle soup. I haven’t been able to stock up on supplies as yet and am a sucker for the small time vendors so I stopped for breakfast. The noodles and broth were really yum with lime, shallot and fish sauce the main ingredients and she was lovely topping up my bowl as I hoed in down with my chopsticks. What I thought was tofu was liver eeeeek but I ate it nonetheless and it was alright just a slight and momentary diversion from my vegetarianism 🙂 The road lived up to the book’s description of being one of Vietnam’s most spectacular stretches. Even in the crappy weather the view out over the ocean was awesome and I stopped heaps of times to enjoy the view. There were sea eagles soaring over the dense forest up the mountain side and the best song birds singing their tunes in the rain. The people here love their caged song birds. They look like a canary but black, white and grey with a black crested head and their song is beautiful. The guest house I’m staying at has one in the foyer where I’m sitting now and it’s showing off for the tourist. It’s a familiar tune that I hear cycling through the towns and being caged doesn’t seem to dampen their spirits that’s for sure. It’s a nice background noise now but allot nicer heard up the mountain side in their natural surroundings. I spotted lads retrieving cages today during the ride so they’re obviously trapped and sold as pets. The seaside bays were dotted all around the mountainous coastline today some appeared to have small villages in the tree-line but most looked uninhabited and enticingly remote. I could imagine stocking up on necessities and finding a possy down amongst the palm trees. Given access and a bit better weather I think Rube and I would have explored the idea but in the rain and fog the idea was close enough. There didn’t appear to be access roads down to them so they may be only reachable by boat but would make a great remote camping spot. The thought crossed my mind that’s for sure. During my coffee break I met some cool people. One Austrian fellow ‘Sep’ came up and introduced himself. He first came to Vietnam over ten years ago when the place was far less touristed and he cycled then and loved it. He was very impressed with Ruby. Each year he’s come back but travels by motorcycle now this year with his daughter in tow. I also got talking with these really young lads from Ho Chi Minh who are currently not working so decided to go traveling by moped. They were really fun with a huge sense of adventure and loved Ruby. She got so much attention today so she’s very happy with herself tonight. I must say she’s looking pretty hot with her new mud guard and saddle bag. These were some of the treats in our care pack from home and accessorize the girls’s red dress beautifully 😉 The mudguard couldn’t have arrived at a better time. It can be very wet in North Vietnam February to April before the summer season so I think we’re in for more. It’s not dampening the spirits just yet as I’m feeling pretty good even with pruney fingers and toes. The gear might start to smell a bit ripe over the next days which may sour things a bit so I’ll find a more suitable guesthouse tomorrow night to wash and dry out the gear before it scars us both 🙂 The coast road is joined regularly by the train track which also runs along the coast. Periodically the track crosses the road and we have to stop for a passing train. There’s no automatic boom-gates here. Instead gates are wheeled across the road by conductors to stop traffic. It’s so different to back home but it works. It’s kinda cool seeing stuff still done by hand but I’m sure the automatic world will catch up soon enough. I had to laugh today amidst the fog and rain I had to stop twice for cows and then goats on the road. I don’t tire of this stuff and love how they are common road traffic. Allot nicer to contend with and I always great them with a big ‘hello ladies, you’re so beautiful!!!.’ What I wouldn’t give to be able to read their thought bubbles 🙂 I got a bit adventurous today and took moving pictures on Rube one of us and the other of this fellow who road alongside wanting to exchange smiles and have a chat. We’re currently trying to upgrade the blog site so I can upload videos which will be a cool dimension to add so I hope it works but I’ll keep you posted with that one. At the top of each mountain pass today were Buddhist shrines very low key but with incense burning even in the drizzle and music was being fluted from somewhere. The atmosphere was wonderful enhanced by the misty rain and I stopped each time to soak it up. There’s something about these shrines that draws me in and has done so since I started. It’s nice to start seeing them again Vietnamese style of course but the same majestic feel. I was reading last night that Vietnamese people mostly identify as Buddhists. As taken from Lonely planet, ‘Over the centuries, Confucianism, Taoism and Buddhism have fused with popular Chinese beliefs and ancient Vietnamese animism to form what’s collectively known as the Triple Religion or ‘Tam Giao.’ Whilst stopped at one shrine today a fog bank came up from the valley and looked magical making a great photo. I should get an opportunity to upload the photos in Hue where I’m headed tomorrow. It’s only 50kms away so a short day but there’s lots of cool things to see in the town so It’ll be good to have an early day and check them out. For now I should probably start thinking about dinner an bed. I’ve scored some hot chocolate sachets as part of my care pack from home so that’ll be desert yum. It’s been fun to spend some time posting tonight. I’m sitting in the foyer with the lady who runs the guesthouse. She’s just quietly reading sitting beside me and the bird’s going off in the background. It’s been a nice space. For now it’s goodnight.Talk soon x

 

Day 64 1016 days to go. Distance: Tues 136km, Wed zilch yay,today 54km total 3634km. It’s 9.05pm Thursday 2/2/2012 Danang. I firstly want to wish my big sister the bestest of birthdays (3/2/2012). They are celebrating in style with a smoking hot beach party with raspberries to Munich’s expected -17 degrees. I love it!!!!! I am good and happy and have had the most special of days with old and new friends in Hoi An. A highlight was Ruby’s naming ceremony today held on the beach in full dress before we headed. Friends Meg and Sandy are holidaying in Hoi An with Peter and Leslie. Leslie is a celebrant so she performed the beautiful ceremony to welcome Ruby Red Dress to the next stage of our safe tripping. Rube loved it as we all did. Thank you Leslie. We have new friends and inspiring memories from our time. I am warm and smiling thinking now of the connection and fun we’ve shared. The location was incredible right on Cua Dai Beach 5km from Hoi An. I was totally spoilt staying at the Swiss Bell Hotel Golden Sands Resort and Spa. It sounds luxurious and it was. Talk about doing it tough!!!! The food and surroundings were exquisite but most of all the company was truly special. I can only rave about these folk. I know from the bottom of my heart how fortunate I am to have such dear friends. 24 hours earlier I arrived quite exhausted and left today energized and smiling. What a gift and how lucky do we feel right now (xxxx oooo from me xxxx oooo from Rubes). Meg and Sandy brought with them our care package from home. My parents and partner put together the best parcel of treats and necessities. The chocolate didn’t make it through the first night yum mint Lindt. Mum and Dad put together a photo album of my family which I have shown off and they generously listened to all my goo’s and gaa’s over my family. All the essentials have found a place amongst the kit so we’re all topped up and so good to go into the next stage. Xxxxxx After playing with the gear Wednesday we headed into Hoi An to enjoy the last of the lanterns decorating the town. The heritage listed place was showing off and was a visual treat to walk and sponge the atmosphere. It caters well for the tourist after a cultural and shopping blended experience. The guys have ridden bicycles and water buffalo through the rice fields, paddled in rub-a-tub-tub boats, did cooking classes, visited My Son, bought tailored clothes and shoes, had massages and indulged in lots of pampering. It was very cool to share some of the shopping, atmosphere, eating and dam fine company space with them yay. On seeing my very hairy legs meg was keen to have me sample ‘threading’. The woman manipulate a cotton thread in a away to remove the hair from the roots. I have a patch on my shin that will never quite be the same. They got their legs eyebrows and facial hair done and can quite frankly shove the experience up the proverbial. Owa ill keep my hairy bits thanks. They even do a brazilian. Can you imagine? I also got to skype each morning with my partner which was a perfect way to start the days. I have to share one story with you. As you know I arrived with a bit of a grrr frown factor from the accumulation of days and Ks. I got an email from my middle sister following my last grizzly post. She shared with me a story that I will always remember. It goes something like…… A wise man is sitting at the border of a new country and two men approach him for advice on what they can hope to expect. The wise man asked the first man of his experience in the last country. The first man told his stories of special open time shared with the people and the wise man explained he would likely experience more of the same in the next country. The second man winged about his time shared with the people and the wise man explained he would likely experience more of the same. How can this be? We so get what we give in return. I know this to be true exclamation exclamation and set off tomorrow relieved that I get this important measage. This afternoon was great. We rode the China Beach Road to Danang. We passed five marble outcrops called marble mountain mined obviously for its marble. The outcrops are as bold as our glasshouse mountains at home and looked impressive against the afternoon sky. China breach is a series of beaches that stretch 30kms to Danang. They end in a cove and mountainous Cape Da Nang. I cycled part way up to where there is a monastery and 40m high towering buddhist statue and shrines. It was really beautiful with gardens of bon sai and statues. Everything was carved white marble so you can imagine the effect of the afternoon light. Rube and I enjoyed the decent back towards Danang and headed across the huge suspension bridge that connects the peninsular with the city. We stopped and enjyed the view from the top before following the beachside road that will eventually lead us back to the highway tomorrow. It was time to find a place to stay and found a Nga Nhi a few streets in for $10 pretty good for Danang. There’s a cafe across the street with wifi so I can send my sister an email for her birthday and upload this post in the morn. Tomorrows up and over the Hai Van Pass to Lang Co (44km). Apparently its one of Vietnam’s most spectacular stretches of road and I can’t wait. I’ve got 17 more days in Vietnam and I’m really looking forward to it. Talk soon x

Day 60 1020 days to go. Distance: today 97km total 3453km. It’s 5.00pm Monday 30/1/2012 Quang Ngai. Hi there. One more day to go one more day to go one more day to go. Do you get I’m a bit excited yayayayayayaya. Can’t wait to see my friends in Hoi An nd guess what….. one more day to go J Oh dear it has been a big few days. I’m sooo happy with myself to have gotten this far in the time frame and now between 125-130km to go (not sure haven’t seen Hoi An come up on the highway yet) it’s one good days ride to get there, but only one. Then I’m socializing and out of the saddle for a couple of days. That sounds so good to be away from the highway and in a good space to recoup a bit. I’m so fried from the mental and physical challenges I know my edges are a bit frayed and patience a bit wayward. There have been regular blasts of verbal and horn aggression from the mixtures of folk on the road. It’s horn first regardless of need followed by a myriad of abuse. I have no idea what they’re saying but the message is the same. Its clear I’m a hindrance and a good sounding post for road rage Vietnamese style J. I’m totally saturated by it and my filters clogged. I’ve had to shut down a bit over the last 2 days just to get through the kms without blowing a stack. And even then I’ve had my moment’s opsy. This lad this afternoon wanted to talk the last 10kms into town which was all very nice and welcoming but amongst the chaos on the road I eventually said goodbye thanked him for his conversation and asked him to move along so I could deal with safely arriving in town and finding a place to stay. He was riding his moped alongside me and it was becoming dangerous as he traffic temp turned up getting closer to town. He didn’t get the hint and proceeded to ask me out and stay at his place bla bla bla you get the idea. No meant keep trying and after another five minutes I had to raise the voice to make it a bit clearer to him to go away. Still no response. OK angry now. Lets say yelling words to the effect of ‘go away’ did the trick but raised the cranky richer scale up too high so it was time to find a bed for the night. The saying is ‘don’t ride angry.’ There’s no longevity in riding safely if I go that path so I was relieved to stop. The timing was perfect. I found a roadside hotel for $7.50 just before the 3km turn off to the city so no backtracking in the morning yay. I’m all cleaned up and perfumed now even plucked the eyebrows J to be socially more presentable tomorrow so feeling human again and that’s a good thing. Rube and I headed into town and found this internet café so awesome chance to upload photos and update the blog before Hoi An. There are some beautiful photos from the coastal ride the last few days it’s really good to get them attached to the blogs. The speed is awesome. The place I stayed last night had wifi but the connection was dodge so my partner and I didn’t have the best of skype chats this morning (Sorry darling). We’ll make up for it Wednesday morning in Hoi An yay. It drizzled all day today with a headwind for most of the day bugga. I had lunch earlier to keep the calories up and that worked allot better. Yesterday I left it a bit late and had a no brainer for the afternoon which made it tougher than it needed to be. Ive heard that coconut milk has awesome electrolytes. That was my treat and highlight today. I stopped at the little roadside stall where I spotted this old couple sitting. They were so welcoming and helped me select a coconut. She skillfully stripped and cut the husk with a machete and made a small hole in the top and handed it to me with a straw in it. It looked great and was devoured. I’ve never had fresh coconut milk before and it tastes yum. Once that was devoured the machete was still sitting on the ground so I tried to cut away the hard outer to get to the pulp. It’s allot harder that they make it look. Much to their amusement they rescued my crap effort and went about in moments cutting it in half for me to eat the inside flesh. The man handed it over with an Asian curved metal spoon perfect for scraping out the inside. Again it was delish and a great calorie hit. They offered me to wash and have a sleep in their single hammock. As tempting as that was I thanked them immensely and headed back on the road for the remainder of the kms. The photos are all uploaded now so I’ll leave it there and get to attaching them. Tomorrows an early start to get through the kms and into Hoi An at reasonable o’clock. Talk soon x

Day 59 1021 days to go. Distance today 86km total 3356km. It’s 8.25pm Sunday 29/1/2012 Binh Dan. Hi there hope everyone is all good. I must say I’m very much looking forward to a day off the saddle and with two days left until Hoi An I’m counting down the kms (about 220km). Tomorrows about 100kms to Quan Ngai then the remaining 121km to Hoi An on Tuesday. I had a huge sleep in this morning and after a top up shop on supplies didn’t get going until 11.30am. The weather was drizzly but good for cycling for the first part then got a bit hilly and headwindy for the later. Anyway they’re kms in the past and tomorrow a new day. I’m staying in a small town about 5km off the highway but most importantly given it was after 5pm when I arrived, it has a Nga Nigh for $5 yay (I recently figured means something like a guesthouse in Vietnamese). It has wifi a bit slow but connected nonetheless. Today’s ride was nice enough through lots of rice fields and smaller towns which is always cool. Earlier the roadside stalls were selling all sorts and shapes of crustaceans and crabs given we traveled along the ocean for the first part of the day. The traffic however was horrendous with so many buses returning folk to their homes in both directions. That made for allot of honks and crazy overtaking on the roads so it wasn’t the nicest of rides and I was relieved to finish and get away from the chaos. I’m a bit tired but figured today it’ll be 17 days in the saddle when I reach Hoi An so no wonder. Totally all good but and am enjoying the countryside immensely. Tonight’s a short post as I’ve been catching up on emails and now hungry and looking forward to bed. Talk soon x

Day 58 1022 days to go. Distance: today 111km total 3276km. It’s 7.40pm Saturday 28/1/2012 Qui Nhon. The guide book I have quoted this day as beautiful but tough with regular climbs and the most challenging day. I thought it was yesterday. Bugga it was a bit tough backing up on yesterdays ride with todays but I think yesterdays ride was harder and more beautiful. That aside the later part of today once we crossed over to the Peninsula Qui Nhon is on, the scenery became spectacular. This made the last 25kms of hills challenging but with lots of great elevated coastal scenery and inland mountains to savor. The excellent road hugged the cliff line so the descents were big fun intermittent with the climbs. Rube and I love cruising down the hills given the roads are ok, it’s big fun. The cycling legs are pretty good with the hills now which takes the edge off the mental challenge of backing up each day. I had a great sleep last night passed out for 9hrs. It took the body a while to get going today and it didn’t quite get all cylinders firing but hey I did ok for an oldie 🙂 I’m looking forward to meeting up with friends and to the break in Hoi An. Three days to go yay! The harder days are done now until north of Danang so it’ll be good to take the edge of the inclines. I woke this morning to rain and thought ‘what the?’ It was so weird and I realized how spoilt I have been with the weather despite being pretty hot it’s been fine since starting. It cleared before I headed and turned into another magical day. It makes sense given the coastal ranges that clouds will be about and supposedly it can be quite wet (and chilly) north of Danang. The scenery continues to be beautiful and it’s such a pleasure to be amongst it. Villages are beautiful to travel through. The homes are usually rendered concrete or brick and washed in a pastel color. Ive taken some picks to capture the look. I think I’ve mentioned there are heaps of offshore islands. Today I passed one that was connected to the mainland by a 1km bamboo pole bridge. It looked so odd busy with moped and people traffic all the while looking so fragile but clearly not and keeps the island village connected to the mainland. They even had their own bus stop at the bridge junction with the main road. I must admit I’m still having some personal difficulty connecting with the people. Saying this I am having lovely one on one contact. Tonight this fella road alongside me along the waterfront chatting about New Years and his town and very friendly. The little lady I bought bread from was so sweet showing off her handful of English words and filling the gaps with Vietnamese and smiles. ‘Come back again’ she called out with a wave as I headed off. Passing through villages the people seem more personable with big waves and smiles a common exchange. My favs are the herders usually young men herding cows or buffalo or goats or ducks always offering a big wave and grin age irrelevant teeth optional. There are other common traits within the Vietnamese psyche that I conflict with but I appreciate it’s just me and my preferences. I’m trying really hard to shut up my negative talk at these times recognizing its my abrasive reaction to a situation I find challenging. That’s one of the great things about travel is that it exposes my strengths and fault lines and is a very real way to learn more about myself. It’s really important and right up there to know I’m growing towards the stuff I value and this is a pretty cool way to explore that challenge. I do best when I’m out of my comfort zone. It cracks me up how I default to routines to create a sense of comfort. There’s certainly no room for any personal shi# and when it surfaces it’s so exposed for what it is. Again I like that. It’s not comfortable but I’m getting used to telling myself to shut up that’s just your ego idiot (meant in the most nurturing way possible of course 🙂 Rube just smiles understanding fully as a fellow virgo-ian. That’s probably enough dribble tonight but it’s been good to put some words around this stuff as it is taking up a bit of my thought space during the day. Time for dinner. Talk soon x

Day 58 1022 days to go. Distance: Wed 85km, yesterday 112km today 117km total 3265km It’s 7.25pm Friday 27/1/2012 Tuy Hoa. Well I’m actually 10km before but I have no idea what the town is called so if anyone gets wind on the spot message when I send it later let me know. Hi. The last three days I’ve travelled to Phan Rang, Nha Trang and tonight just shy of Tuy Hoa. The scenery along this stretch is beautiful with coastal and inland mountain ranges keeping us company along with spectacular stretches of beach, offshore islands, cliff lines, coves, fishing villages and coastal roads. When the road does cut inland its amongst farming villages, rice fields, banana trees and grazing water buffalo to name a select few. All the while the mountains loom with drifts of cloud about its peaks and valley. It’s Vietnam postcard style and it’s a real treat to cycle through. The three days have just got better and apparently it continues to impress as we head north. Wednesday morning Phan Rang I headed down to the fish market to check it out. It was low key but really interesting with fish and shellfish hauls being sold straight out of the banana leaf baskets. The locals were battering prices and full of eagerness to haggle a bargain. I saw this one couple having a domestic and you could almost hear him saying ‘ you sold it for what?!’ It was on. Time to go 🙂 The days cycling was really tough as there was such strong headwinds and gusts. I should have suspected so when I saw a field of wind energy propellers along the coastline. I got blown off the road so many times and at one stage literally got blown off the bike. No damage but so deflating to average under 10 per hour for the long day. At the 40km mark I came over this rise and the headwind was so strong I had to get off and push Rube. I walked her into this roadside stop, parked her, squatted up against a post and cried like a big baby. Not one of my best moments. Once that was out of the system I pulled myself together and broke the remaining 42km into 5 km blocks and slowly the kms got done. All that aside this is where the scenery started to impress so that was a real positive and inspiration in the day. When we got into Phan Rang I found this dilapidated old grand hotel so art nuevo (?) something straight out of prague but needing serious attention. It was $5 per night and a great place to stay. When we arrived I kissed Rube for a day so well done. She has kicked arse particularly over the last days in the hilly and windy conditions and not skipped a beat which has been awesome. But the highlight of the day was a family skype session that night with my ma and pa, partner and both pooches all visiting nana and granddads. Loved it thank you my darling family x The southern section of the highway was controlled by the Cam people from the 12th century and there are reddish brick Cham towers or sanctuaries periodically seen at elevated landmarks along the highway. I had a cool stop this day for an iced sugar cane drink. The vendor was run by a mother (84 y/o) and daughter (60 y/o). They were both so keen to talek and share stories it was a really lovely and I enjoyed a good hour break and chat with them both. The drinks my favorite. They add a twist of orange citrus to theres it was yum. Heading onto Nha Trang the scenery continued to impress and the wind eased up for the last 20kms into town which was a welcome change. Nha Trang is one of the top tourist destinations for its beaches and offshore islands, diving and snorkeling. It’s also known as the party capital of Vietnam and it was showing off. It was the last night of holiday celebrations and there was heaps of street activities going on and off. The city was bustling with locals and tourists which made for a greta vibe but unfortunately no accommodation left, Like nothing available nudda nicht bugga. This woman at a guest house I tried earlier in the evening offered me floor space in the front recpetion foyer once the shop front closed if I couldn’t find anywhere else. Two hours later I walked back in and she said to come back at 11pm when she closes. This hgave me a chance to wonder about the city and soak up the atmosphere. The beach was all flood lit so the nightlife spilled out onto the sand and boardwalk area. There were live stage shows and markets and vendors and rollerbladers with everything lit and sparkling. It was cool and fun to take some pickies. I would have done my post up for the day but unfortunately used all my battery playing Ipod tunes for the last half of the day. I was happy to have someone to sleep but didn’t get to many zzzzz last night but was safe at least. The guest house lady her name was Trang and she was such a sweetie gave me a towel to freshen up in the bathroom, a roll mat, pillow and blanky. Nice and yet another ‘saved by a local’ story. It was an early 6a cycle start to the day today. I wanted to give myself heaps of time to get through the Kms and the terrain. Todays leg read as the toughest so we were into it. I actually felt really good considering the lack of zzzzz and the area to cycle was awesome. I love mountains and have since I can remember. There’s something so inspiring and comforting about them. Like big strong arms wise and handsome. I was surrounded with that feeling all day and got to pass over one of the ranges which was a challenge that we both really enjoyed. We went up initially say 500m and it flattened out. I was actually a bit disappointed cause it read up as a big deal. The view was still awesome so we sat and enjoyed a coffee all together, Rube, blue dog Miss J and me. We got back under way and soon found that to be just a warm up and it was about a 10km climb winding up and over. It was hard but cool to do. The Dai Lahn peninsula where the pass was is famous for its fresh water springs. The locals have somehow harnessed the water pressure and have these roadside stops with huge hoses where the passing buses and trucks stop to clean off. Seems like a waste to me but whatever works. I preferred to fill my water bottle with the freezing water from a spring coming from between rocks on the roadside. . The beach coves today were beautiful. So much so I stopped and had my first swim in the surf it felt great loved loved loved it. The locals don’t seem to be that keen on the water. Always keen to be eating at vendors or restaurants perched at these great locations but not to be on the beach soaking it up as such. I must have looked a sight in my bra and undies but that came a way second to a swim. It’s getting onto 9pm now and I’m a bit delirious and starving. Time for dinner and the sweetest of dreams of Vietnamese coastal mountains.

 

Day 54 1036 days to go Distance today 66km total 2971. Its 6.30pm Tuesday 24 January 2012 Phan Ri Cua. Hi there. It’s been a great day happy happy wind blown and weary but smiling big. Away from the highway all day not all planned but ended up following the coast and inland unsealed road to Phan Ri Cua. I actually intended on following a sealed secondary road to the highway then to turn off to a short distance to this seaside town. However after following the coast road for about 35 km I came to a junction and had no idea which road to take. I asked this young lad for help, showed him the map and where I wanted to end up today and he insisted that the way to go was to turn off the main road onto an unsealed road. Do you know how hard it is to firstly turn off from bitumen onto dirt road and secondly head off away from where the map said to go towards what looked like nowhere and trust a 16 year old that smelt of beer. MMMMMMMMM What to do. But this is an adventure right!!!!!! So off I turned. I must admit that during the next 31kms I was wondering who made that decision but the ocean was on my right so I was going the right way at least 🙂 And then the ocean disappeared and the road went inland and I was a bit nervous for a bit. The road was pretty crap and sandy if not stoney so the going was tough for Rubes. She’s a dirty girl tonight but very pleased with herself. She was a bit clunky at the end of the day but I’ll clean her up in the morning before heading. Anyway the scenery was great very much sand dunes country remote but beautiful. I stopped at a white sands dune for a late breaky and coffee which was a stark contrast to the red dunes I had seen earlier. The area is well known for its red dunes and we stopped this morning to check the spot out where people buy tabogans and go sliding much like on Frazer and Moreton Islands at home. It wasn’t as massive and vast as on the islands but it still looked impressive and the view from the top was beautiful out across the ocean. The stretch from Mei Ni north just got better. There was a lady selling the tabogans and we got chatting about how cool they were and she was happy to have her photo taken. I loved the far more remote ocean road and less traffic so much so Blue dog and Miss Jane joined us for a stop to see what all the fuss was. They now want to start riding on the handle bars and are at me to get them a seat. I’ll have to make electrical tape leathers for them to look after their bits but it might just work. There were still cows being herded along this quieter coast and at one stage there was a cow chilling along the waters edge enjoying her fengshu. It’s looked crazy and Im not sure when I’ll next see a cow on a beach. Fish farms of sorts appeared from time to time which were interesting. As I got more inland the ground became rocky sand and goats started appearing. They were beautiful. Black and orange like the dunes colour. Of course I had to stop and say hi to my Chinese zodiac special timing for new years. I was wondering where the road would spit us out along the coast and whether I’d have any idea where exactly we would end up and how to get back to the highway. I was trying to ignore this thought but it was definately background noise that’s for sure. I couldn’t believe it when we did actually come to a town. It was where I wanted to go and the little lad was spot on. The town is small and cute very much low key withs lots of local gatherings and drinks being enjoyed on day two of the three days public holidays. But they were a happy corwd and very interested in me arriving from the coast road. I stopped to check the map and where I’ll head out tomorrow and a group of young boys came over with ‘hello’s and ‘what’s you names?.’ We had english small talk and introductions and they got so into it and so did I. A crowd of kids soon gathered plus a few adult bystanders who showed me to a street stall and offered me a cool sugar cane drink. Great timing and yum. I got ut my Vietnam phrase words page and one little lad assumed the role of teacher and took me througha ll the prnounciations much to the entertainment of the onlooking crowd. We took a handful of group shots and I’d do the countdown 1,2,3 before taking the shot. They loved it and let out a huge cheer when the photo was taken each time. It was really fun. They gave me directions to a first hotel and waved me off. The next 3 hotels I found were either closed or full being holidays. I got directions to one that wasn’t opened but they gave me a room anyway. I paid for it for the standard $11 but who cares it was nice to stop and clean up after what was a long haul aweome day. Being away from the highway was just wonderful no trucks or horns and I love love love being on the ocean and the adventure of the day. Hope you enjoy the photos. I found an internet cafe and get to upload thos from the last days. The computer speed here is great and they’re done already so I’llf insih off there to attache them and head back for dinner. Extra hungry and happy tonight yay. Talk soon x PS I included a couple of photos from the place I stayed last night which I forgot to mention. It was really cute bunglaow stoyle stilted hut with a a netted matress on the floor. A cool dorm experience. Also a special picture I took of my seriously bad cycling tan I too particualr notice of this arv after putting som ecream on. Just thought I’d share the shorts, keens and sock tan very sexy 🙂

Day 54 1036 days to go Distance today 42km total 2905. Its 6pm Monday 23 January 2012. I’m sitting on the beachfront watching the last of the sunset. It’s been such an interesting and mixed day today but this moment watching the colors fade was just to nice not to share. It’s getting dark now so I’m going to head back to the place I’m staying clean rube and me then I’ll finish this post. Back soon.

Its 9.30 and I’m sitting at fhe restaurant attached to the guesthouse. Can you hear that squeaky noise that’s me and Rube. Her front derailer got bent up against the chain in the bus trip from hell back in Phenom phen and has been rubbing since driving us both nuts and can’t be any good for her. So today I held my breath and muscled it back eeeek. I was waiting for it to break off and be left holding onto it with an ‘oops what now’ look on my dial and a ‘I may have to kill you in your sleep’ look on Rubes. I hope I did an ok job. I got some advice from the fellers from Spin city Mooloolaba along with the bike manual so we’ll soon see. It gets a bit hilly over the next days so I was keen to try sort it. As I said earlier its been a mixed day but what a way to end the daylight hours with a sunset over the ocean. Yay the coast there’s something about the ocean isn’t it. I was totally ready for an easy day and to turn off a bit so I cycled a short way to Mui Ne. It’s a beach town about 20km on from Phan Thiet. Interesting place. I did some exploring all afternoon after I found a dorm for $4 awesome. It got written up as one of the best beaches in Vietnam but we’re so spoilt at home with no comparison. It’s sort of divided into three bits: the town which is neglected and a seedy place. Tragically for the environment the pollution on the waterfront there brings tears however I did get my first glimpse of their bizarre row boats. They are round woven baskets with waxed outside. There’s a plank and paddle and look like ‘rub-a-tub-tub,’ The view back from the town you appreciate the red dunes which the area in known for along with kitesurfing. Heading back along the coast the resorts start one after the other. They control access to the beach in front so you cant actually access the beach unless you’re a patron at one of them. I did find this empty allotment with grass huts sheltering a handful of beached row boats. This was a beautiful spot to just sit have a late breaky and coffee and just enjoy the sound and view loved it. We headed onwards then to a public area that has a tiled boardwalk and rock wall. Again the little boats were beached and look so odd and cute. I found a possy on a rock and just people watched for ages it was great. This woman came up at one stage totally curious with my tattoo and nose ring. She asked me using hand signals how old I was and ‘tut tut-ed’ me. Evil Maree was saying to myself ‘yes you’re right I should be overweight and rude like you,’ but just shrugged and smiled indicating I was happy. She then offered me a green mango and it was delish. Go figure anyway the mango was yum. A far more friendlier experience was this morning before leaving Phan Thiet. The daughter was visiting the parents who run the hotel and she speaks excellent English. So we got talking and she offered me a Vietnamese coffee and we sat and chatted to midday. It was fabulous she was so interesting and we talked about experiences and perspectives and cultural differences and adversity and spiritual strength and outlook. Honestly I could still be there it was wonderful and I got so much out of it and it was really special to share some ideas and have them challenged with extra information. For example I shared with her the story of the caged birds from Loas and how they are released to lighten your worries. She added how sad she thought it was that something so special has become about buying and selling at the cost of the birds who suffer and sometimes die before being released. She spoke about the irony of caging an innocent creature to sell to someone to release their worries. I remember at the time being so releived that they werent for eating and how much I liked the symbolism. But she spoke about the importance of looking further into things for truth. Anyway like I said it was really interesting. She was a writer now a designer and lives in Ho Chi Minh with her son. We exchanged details and I hope to keep in touch. The coffee was great. I thought the drink I’ve seen people having in cafes and eating places was coke or pepsi on ice but it’s actually iced coffee. It’s brewed quite strong and you can have it black or mixed with condensed milk how she served it today. Then it’s served on ice and it tastes big time yum. I’ve seen mostly men drink it by the bucket loads like in a pot sized glass. The men’s cafes I’ve mentioned mostly serve this drink if not beer. So there you go. It went down so well as I had a crappy sleep last night with the New Years festivities lasting all through the night. Good on them but it made it hard for shut eye with the cymbols and firecrackers and drums going off. It’s been really quiet today most shops are closed with rhe start of family time. Luan’s family left while we were talking to see her grandmother. She shared her granmother’s story being the sole suvivor from her village that was bombed and everyone killed during the vietnam war. She just happened to be away from the village at the time but unfortunately lost the rest of her family in the tragedy. I just checked my photos to see if I had missed anything I wanted to include tonight and found a photo of a little honey eater. While I was sitting at the grass huts I spotted this colored little thing busy and bright as he was. I took a picture as it reminded me of the little family that nested at my mum and dads place near their back door. They got so much joy watching them build, lay, hatch, feed, fly and leave to do it all over again all in a space of a few weeks. It was beautiful .Anyway mum and dad that photo and story’s for you and the honey eater family whever they may now be. Off to bed. Talk soon x ps Highlight of the day was my Skype date this morning with my partner and pooches. I love Skype.

Day 53 1027 days to go. Distance today: 122km total 2863km. It’s 7.30pm Sunday 22/1/2012 Phan Thiet. I had pretty much finished the post while the photos were uploading but then there was a black out and I lost it bugger. So I’ll make this start and update it back at the hotel using wifi as the photos have uploaded already the computer speed is awesome yay. Back soon.

Back again and very cool news the computer is reading the SD card. You can still see the .exe files faded but its reading the good ones as well go figure who cares they’re uploading awesome.

So today is the eve of the Chinese New Years and Phan Thiet is celebrating with all its lights and festivities and al freco family dining. The city is on the river which makes for a really pretty place at it’s best with the celebrations. I went out for a couple hours over sunset and it was beautiful. I also did a little nosing about the back residential alleyways which was sooo interesting. Local folk also enjoying their festivities low key but nonetheless. They were a little surprised to see me and Rube being nosey parkers so I just smiled and moved along not to be more intrusive than we already were. I did manage to snap a photo away from the home fronts to show you the narrow alleys they were cool and it was a good accidental find. Today was long but a shave off the H’s yesterday including my attitude so it made for a much nicer day of it. The scenery also changed getting more hilly as I got closer to the coast. Phan Thiet is where I turn north now and head up the coast along the National highway route up toHanoiand intoChinafor April and May. I haven’t caught the sight and smell of the ocean yet just the riverside but that’ll be tomorrow for sure as I turn left and head up the coast. Today’s also significant being my last official day of being a police officer. I was privilaged to getting an article done on my cycle tour in the Sunshine coast daily so check it out for a read. Bit of ironic timing and I like I get to celebebrate this time doing what I’m doing. The picture they featured doesn’t show Rube and she’s not talking to me again. Bugga. Time for some more pampering and taking lots of feature photos of her over the next days. Don’t be surpirised to see me making a fuss about her in the uploaded photos. She so deserves the attention carrying the load of me and the trailer every day beautifully J

I entertained the brain first up this morning for an hour by waving at people who gawked and counting how many waved back. It was a really good way to get my attitude back on track from yesterday. So the stats were 66 of my waves to 49 wave backs pretty good I reckon. I think it’s human communication instinct to positively respond to a positive attitude and it showed today. A good heads up. A little fellow just visited me very curious about what I was doing. I gave him a big hello and he squeeked a hello but was frightened off. Poor little fellow and a bit of a change fromCambodia. The hotel I found was good $11 per night and with hot water huge indulgance. I stood under it far longer than any good water conservationist would this afternoon but I must say the excessiveness was totally delish. The photos are finished uploading so it’s time to attach and head for some dinner, sarving. Ocean breeze sounds far more nicer than inland headwind don’t you think? Bring it on. Talk soon x PS I have a skype date in the morning with my partner and the puppies how cool is that!!!!!!