Post # 74 Jenzhou

China is truly amazing – Im now right in the middle of upturn egg carton country – It’s like glasshouse mountains everywhere as far as the eye can see and 360 degress. It’s up there as one of the most beautiful countryside Iv ever seen. It’s very cold and rains allot – when it rains the temp drops to not much above zero and the goretex and balaclava comes out. Today however was cloudy as all days are but no rain – so it was 7 degrees which is a lot nicer to be in and makes a huge difference. If I wear my wet weather pants, lighter jacket, cycle shorts underneath and merino t-shirt I can cycle without sweating. I swop the gloves and balaclava with my cycling gloves and hat when the temp changes but otherwise that worked really well today. It’s important not to put too much gear on as I sweat underneath and then when I stop its freezing cold. It also makes for allot of wet gear at the end of the day that doesnt dry overnight. Yesterday I found myself 30kms from where I thought I was on the map and that pretty much sums up what ts like to move from A to B. The map I have is great as far as it gives me names to ask directions but the distances are out and making planning the day a bit trickier than it alreay is. I also need to plan my kims around bigger dots on the map where Ill know I will get accomodation as Ive been knocked back a couple times now from accomodation that only takes locals. This tends to be the smaller towns and dots on the map. I should arrive in Yangshu on Saturday all gong well but its really up to the elements and rain playts a part in how far I can  manage in a day. Yesterday I only managed 35km but today got 90km done – Im aiming for a big day tomorrow but that’s just the plan and what happens from there we don’t know until into the day. The people are soo interesting and very intrigued by us. Some give us a wide birth but check us out on the periferal. Most people ar very interested to communicate but have had little experience talking with foreigners who don’t understand Mandarin. They think that speaking slower will make a difference and then they even write it down in chinese to help. It’s so genuinely trying to communicate but no idea. I am so happy and relaxed and rolling with it as there’s no option just to do the best we can with what we know and make the rest up as we go. The countryside as I said is sooo beautiful. Most of the day is spent cycling through the remoteness intermittant with villages with a backdrop of egg cartons. They are farming folk mostly this southern part of china farming sugercane, rice of course, corn and mixed greens. They use terracing to grow their crops. The people work so hard and everything by hand ploughing with water buffalo, planting, cutting. They burn their cane and it reminds me of Bundaberg of old the smell in the air and flecks of ash. They then stack anything from bicycles to trucks from 50 nyears again pile high with the burned cut cane to take to wherever they supply. Just watching their rural day to day life go past is amazing and I’m loving it.   I didn’t realise I’d be smack bang in the middle of this hast country so early and being in the middle of rural remote villages for most part is just perfect – saddled up to my first bowl of noodles today with a boiled egg plopped in the middle. It was soo hard it gave me the hiccups but the lady was soo gorgeous and was keen to know I had a full belly before heading off. Meanwhile the local men gathered round Rube and poked and prodded her parts discussing her in detail – it looked great – half of them then came into the stall and sat around me eating their noodles also and encouraging me to eat up – My hands were a bit cold and took ages to warm up, so I found using the chopsticks a bit tricky but got there in the end holding my hands over the steaming soup – im happy and well and loving every precious moment here – I’m out on a limb as far as finding my way around and totally dependent on directions.  Not having any access to info in english took me a while to get used to how to manage but again were getting there.
Talk soon, Ree

Post # 73 Nanning (with pics!!)

 

 

Day 88 992 days to go. Distance: yesterday 69km today (still to come), total # . It’s 9.10am Sunday 26/2/2012 Nanning. Neehow from us in Nanning. China what an amazingly interesting and challenging place to travel through. It took me just short of 4 hours to find my way through Nanning yesterday and to the hostel I read in the Lonely Planet. It’s a new experience for me to rely totally on the directions of others and not be able to negotiate myself. A bit challenging for this little independent girl. But hey we’re gettting there. I found out last night that China has a internet block on wordpress so I have to organise an alternate way to update you and am working on that one with the family’s help on options. I started yesterday with a visit to the local market and bought some snacks for the day. I found a steamed bun with a date mix in it and another steamed cake wedge yum. I munched on that for breaky and enjoyed watching the locals in their morning market mode. Most folk are so shocked to see me but some are curious enough to poke about the bike and me and a few will say hello or give me a smile but mostly not. In saying that we just smile and say Neehow and present as best we can. I feel sooo alien but to another level. And with the language barrier but reliance on local directions its quite isolating the feeling. I relaised last night it’s probably the first time I have actually felt lonely. Needless to say I loved my shype catch yp with the folks and my partner over the last 24 hours stay in Nanning. Nanning is not the biggest place Ive been in but its certainly the most dense and developed with highways and overpasses and over half dozen bridges across the river it sprawled around. It was a new level of challenge and I must say stress. Rube got taken out heaps of times by intersecting pedestrians, cars, tuks tuks, taxis, mopeds, bicycles, dogs J She was a bit fragile last night poor darling and needed a cuddle. Nanning otherwise is a real funky city neon and bustling and grand. Very cool to wonder through which we did so after cleaning up and taking a deep breath arriving yesterday. I culd have kissed the girl at reception when she indicated they had one dorm bed left thank Budha. I found a supermarket and stocked up on essentials. The cost of living is higher and it’ll be good to stay between 15-20 dollars a day. The amount of help Im getting is wonderful but given I’m also asking for allot of help. There’s lots of shuns amongst the trys if that’s the word. I can only imagine we would be just as alien as we feel. It’s an amazing experience and one I have found myself in as I don’t think I would have chosen to be so out of my comfort zone. Chinese folk I have come across are unique. There’s no chaos amongst how they move and interact like south east asia. It’s far more orderly amongst the people and on the roads. But’s its still very busy, dense and populated in the cities. There’s a constant feeling I have of having nothing to loose with respect to asking for help. The worst hing is that I am still standing here in the crossroads literally not sure which ways which. I keep hearing my partner say ‘don’t panic’ and my Mum saying ‘ take deep breaths and one step at a time.’ I’m into it and will love it moreso in retrospect I’m sure but it is a new level of challenge. I am re routing the trip again now I am a bit more familiar with road types and conditions. It’s also important that I aim for a place for the day as there’s allot of rural in between. I’m still working ion that and will update you when I’m a bit clearer. Rube’s travelling just beautifully and I tell her how clever she is every moment I can. Darling girl!!! For now I have to pack myself up and face the ‘getting now out of Nanning’ challenge. Has any one seen road 322??????? It’s north east so with compas in hand that’s a good place to start. Tallk soon x      

Post # 72 Datang

Day 86 994 days to go. Distance: today 120km total # . It’s 8.00pm Friday 24/2/2012 Datang. I’m having fun! Totally working hard for the money honey but having fun doing it. China is already a unique experience and  I’m enjoying getting to know her.  Access to info is a real challenge. Road signs showing towns are in Chinese except for major junctions and there’s lots of kms in between. This means heaps of bothering local folk with directions. With a bit of extra effort I eventually find someone willing and patient to help us out. I can’t pick the type of person best to approach. Men and women, young and old, city and village folk, have all varied from helpful to not. If I had to pock Id say I’m having more luck with older blokes  especially taxi or truck drivers who after having a joke, try to help the damsels. Some people try to help but find it too hard and wave their hand meaning no.  Asking for help is really interesting afterwards but hardwork at the time. It was easy enough finding the right road out of Fangcheng to Qinzhou. I had my first break at a bus station where there were people selling snacks for travelers. I bought 4 eggs, a slab of sticky cake like hot bread, and an apple filled steamed bun for 6 Yen (under $1). I snacked on local cuisine during the day and the rest is for dinner with noodles yum. I got directions into Qinzhou from two fellas sitting on their mopeds at a junction. They were very cheeky and fun and helpful. They went all shy when I took their photo being very cute for two old roughies smelling of beer and cigarettes. After Qinzhou the road divided to an expressway and secondary road. On seeing the state of the road I tried to take the expressway but got pounced on by the toll gate folk. It seems bikes aren’t allowed opsy. Hey can’t blame a girl for trying.  The road was tough going but interesting as it went through farming country and small villages. I took photos to try capture the rural and village feel. They use terracing to farm their rice fields and other crops like corn and greens. I spotted this woman working in the field with her baby on her back under an umbrella.  There were lots of road works and just as many women as men doing the labour. I passed a handful of people carrying eggs in baskets on their bikes and mopeds. I wondered how many eggs survived the trip given the humpy ride. The last 70kms were pretty hilly. Not steep just slow long inclines that added up to a decent 120km day. The scenery was awesome to cycle  with the rural life and green hills. I must say I was pretty happy to arrive here later this afternoon and the end of day coffee tasted pretty good. The woman running the guesthouse is sweet and using her two young daughters to help communicate with me. We weren’t having much luck exchangingd info to check in. She was writing down in Chinese what she was trying to say likethat was going to make a difference. To her credit she stayed patient which was great. I ended up using the key phrases in the lonely planet and this did the trick. After cleaning up Ive checked out the maps again to do a rough plan for the next 43 days.  All going well I should be able to cycle the whole way to Xian and Beijing. I’ve found a cool side road from Yangshuo to Gulin that takes you through the pick of the Li River area and some remote villages. I’m very excited about this part of the trip and keen to experience China’s famous limestone karst area with Rube off the highway and amongst village life. For now but I must feed the brain some calories. Cool day but time for some zzzzzzz. Talk soon x

Post # 71 Fancheng via Germany (have to work on the photo-business)

Day 85 995 days to go. Distance: today 66km, yesterday (travel day), total # . It’s 6.00pm Thursday 23/2/2012 Fangcheng China. Nihao (pronounced Neehow) from China. I have no idea why but I was really nervous about moving into China and the buzz of now being here is truly wonderful. It feels like ‘this is now it.’ Like we’ve had our teething time and now we begin our journey or something along those lines (it only took us 4 amazing countries and 4 000km to warm up :-). Our last 48 hours in Vietnam was really special. I loved it and surprised myself to be sad to say goodbye. We were sort of just settling in. I woke yesterday morning all nervous with the bus trip and starting China in general. So the business brain was on to get through the next day. Scared myself and Ruby a bit 🙂 The lad from the guest house in Halong met us at 9.00am yesterday morning to escort us on his moped to make sure we got onto a bus for Mong Gai. Lovely man!! Thank goodness hedid. I thought we were going to the bus stop but instead we went to the highway and waited for a bus bound for the border. During the 30minute wait he asked me all sorts of questions about australia practicing his english 101. He even asked for my email address so he could write me to practice more. I can’t remember his name to save myself and should have written it down. Anyway it was easy time spent waiting until he flagged down a local bus. No luggage compartments thank goodness so Ruby got wheeled up the bus aisle and lent against the seats and her trailer stored in the centre door well. They were totally safe and travelled beautifully. The lads on the bus and the other travelers were more than happy to have us on board. The men sitting near me were fascinated in the Chinese maps and guide book that I had out to look at. They also checked out my cleat  shoes, wedding band, and St Christopher pendant and thought it all very interesting. The 4 hourtrip flew and I was very happy to know we were traveling safe. We arrived Mong Gai about 2.30pm. I repacked the girl and we had a look around town generally and to find somewhere to stay. I had a skype date with my partner at 7pm so I was keen for wifi access. Instead we found this hotel that I think has been my favorite stay. The man and wife who ran the place were all welcoming smiles wanting us to stay. when I explained about wifi I eventually understood that he piggy backs the wifi from the cafe across the road. How cheeky and he knew it!!! We spent ages laughing while he tried to remember the password and eventually sorted it out and logged in. He gave me the best room in the front of the hotel because that was closest to the cafe. bonus! When you stood on the balcony with your tongue the right way you could still get a bar or two. The room was fabulous for $15 which was a god deal considering the heaps of places I checked out beforehand were alldives still asking $10. The two couldn’t do enough to make our stay comfortable. They gave us toffee’s and chocolates and green tea sachets and butter cubes. They had two of the most boofiest German Shepherds. I fussed over and cuddled them heaps and they were darling gentle giants and clearly mum and dad’s babies. I read that the Chinese like dog hot pot so I’m to know my babies are sfa at home and these two boofs in Vietnam. at least we have an idea where those buses were headed. I don’t think they would be bothered with Monty my mini foxy. Then again she could make a snack dumpling with her last tooth a bonus toothpick. Better she stays at home!!!! Back to the hotel folk. They have two daughters one working with Vietnam airlines and the other married with a six year old boy. I really enjoy sharing info with folk keen to do so and try despite the language barrier. It’s special to get to know someone obviously on a limited level but it’s still warm andsharing and very cool. The man gave me heaps of directions this morning but it was still a bit tricky to find the border crossing and I stopped heaps for extra pointers. We had all day so that part was ok. We eventually found the spot. It was wierd you had to buy a ticket to go into immigration. Go figure. Unfortunately I had spent most of my dong and didn’t have enough. The locals were being charged 10 000 but of course tourists are double and I only had 13 000. This man stepped forward to see what the fuss was, took my 10 000 and put in the extra 10 000 just to shut the ticket lady up and move along the crazy cycle lady 🙂 He got the warmest handshake and smile I could muster and we were in. Well sort of. The process was very formal like in an airport with customs and immigration. The only difference was that instead of having luggage I had Rube and her trailer. So we had to negotiate stairs, through dogleg queuing systems, turnstiles, scanningmachines and down some more stairs where the process spat us out all stamped up and ready for China. Phew!!!!!!! It was crazy literally being popping out the Chinese side of the border in a city called Dongxing. And it was huge and immediately different. As kids we each had a jewelry box and amongst the trinkets I remember having a chinese lantern ornament. I thought of this lantern stepping out into Dongxing. Everything was in Chinese writing, road signs, town names, directions, shop signs, advertising. It was such a buzz and the city was big and bustling. How’s this… I had no idea which direction to head so I got the compass and map out and figured we had to head north so we did. Lots and lots and more lots of stops to get directions and we eventually popped out on a highway heading in the right direction I hoped. On the way out I passed a bank and ATM. I  checked on the exchange rate. It’s $6.50 for 1 Chinese Yen. The girl in the bank was veryhelpful. I gave her a big Xiexie ni (pronounced shea shea nee (thankyou) to which she said ‘just ‘shea shea is ok.’ Lingo like a local I love it!! A way out of town the road signs started to include the written name of the places under the chinese writing yay relief.  I stopped by the roadside when I first saw a sign for Fangcheng and knew for sure we were on track. I just sat there with the biggest idiot grin on my face so happy with ourselves!!!!!!!! The weather was great, overcast but warm and I just had a t-shirt on which is the first time for ages and felt good. We got right into the cycling from there. It was fun to practice and get into the swing of ‘neehows’ and all smiles for the local folk. I am very happy to be here. It’s not going to be easy traveling to say the least but I’m into it. One thing I appreciate from our travels to date is the amount of emotional  energy I spend each day. If this energy is positive it gives back to the tank. Ifits negative it depletes. Both also breed like rabbits. Positive vibes make lots of positive vibe babies and vice versa. My positive energy has been often reactive, adolescent and inconsistent.  Unconditional effort is such a constant source of positive energy and good stuff. Mines tested under pressure but today was a good good start with the yen dropping somewhat 😉 The road veered from the highway and was full on bumpy with potholes and gravel but it was all good. I was just happy to potter along taking the bumps easy for both of us to get here safe and sound. Rube and I were very content to arrive intact which we did about 3.00pm. Initially we were going to head onto Qinzhou and found the road out. I stopped for a break and realized  I was actually really quite shagged A border crossing and 66km  was enough for our first day in China :-). As all the buildings are signed in chinese writing I had no idea what was a hotel, guesthouse or hostelwhich are the accommodation options that I read about in China. So I just asked and after lots of points later found a building that looked like every other one. I went inside and there was a hotel reception  area yay!!!! 80 Yen or $12.50 i’m all clean and comfy and posting to you fine folk enjoying the aftermath of a huge and very satisfying day. Welcome to china with lots and lots of what I lnow will be challenging but super interesting times ahead. Here we go!!!!! Time for dinner and bed I’m shattered and it’s only 7.30pm. A big day for two little virgos :-). Talk soon x

Post # 70 Hon Gai Halong Bay

Day 83 997 days to go. Distance today 26km total 4909km . It’s 4.48pm Tuesday 21/2/2012 Hon Gai (Halong City). I was only looking for a WC so I could stop and do my post for the day over sunset. Yes you read right. It’s perfect blue skies this afternoon just t-shirt weather and soooooo yummy. I can feel the body soaking it up as I type. Anyway the urgency was worth buying a coffee. I’m right on the waterfront on the other side of the bridge after spending an awesome couple of hours pottering around the Vietnamese side of town away from the tourist focus. It was just nice to be out and active amongst it so I thought I’d head back over the bridge and see whats about. I firstly sent my next ritual postcard to my buddy Robbie C x I ended up a working class district with the best market. Of course stop time. I had only just started looking and this woman from a shop came up showing me a card with ‘how old are you?’ written on it in english. How totally random. Well that was the start of chaos. Bugger minding the shops it was ‘check out the Aussie’ o’clock. In no time a dozen women were around asking questions for a younger woman who could speak ‘so so’ english to translate. These were her words when I commended her on her English which she learnt in high school. Her name is Do Thu Ha and she is 30 years old with a 9 year old boy who’s smart but a bit lazy. She’s given me her address and asked for me to write her a letter. She doesn’t understand computers or email. Anyway…. chat chat chat laugh giggle poke slap awesome and on it went for over an hour. I tried to take a photo but they all scattered in hysterics. Do hung around with some convincing so at least I have one picky. It felt like an outing with the girls and I loved it. I bought bickies and coffee from Do’s shop to thank her for her translations. Now back to where I started. When I came out of the markets it was blue and hot and it was really startling how changed and beautiful the weather was. Perfect timing for sunset o’clock but I really had to go to the loo. Ive been acting on my sisters advice to drink more water to stop the Miss Piggy blow outs on rest days, so the bladders working overtime. As I said the urgency was worth a coffee so I stopped at this cafe which doesn’t sell coffee. Stubborn Vietnamese always wanting to do their own thing. Sounds like someone else I know all too well 🙂 I showed the lady the coffee sachets I just bought and offered to buy a glass of ‘sow’ (hot water). It was a freebie and now I’m sitting in her cafe with wifi on the water posting to you fine people sipping my coffee bought from Do’s shop watching a sunny sunset over Halong Bay. How good can it get!!!!!!!!!! Photo time. Oh and by the way I haven’t even got onto the boat trip today. This part of the world is crazy postcard beautiful. I know I use that word freely but with all due respect it really is. I have noticed voting forms about with ‘vote Halong Bay as a new natural wonder of the world.’ Does anyone know anything about this? It was overcast but it didn’t stop getting a feel for how magical this area is. Apparently it’s only the start of things now to come heading up into southern china. Enjoy the photos as much as I did taking them. It was like our private cruise. There were only four other people on the boat that could have held 400. I found a possie on top and soaked in every bit of delish. The scenery just got better and every angle you looked there was something else to enjoy. The bay is very busy with tourism and fishing industry. Nothing ugly about it. Quite the contrary good to se it working for the people and economy. Heaps of other tourist boats like hundreds and lots of trawlers and other fishing boats even rub a tub tubs. Market folk are busy with their vending stalls on water. I bought my first mango and slopped it all over me for breaky. The fishing industry is farmed as well as caught and ranges from huge containers transporting supplies from the farms to small time fishing boats. These mostly work from the floating Villages amongst the rocks. Always soaring overhead the peaks are sea eagles which I managed to grab a photo of. It was wonderful and a must do that I’m so glad I did. Tomorrow is a bus to this side of the border where I’ll stay one more night and cross the border with the first full cycle day in China Thursday. Vietnam has slapped me about and I’m smiling with every bit of genuine respect for a country of folk that are annoyingly contagious. Time to enjoy the sunset. I’ll upload the photos after a Skype date with my partner at 7pm. Wonderful wonderful very cool indeedy awesome day!!!!! Point made 🙂 Talk soon x

Post # 69 Bai Chay – Halong Bay

Day 82 998 days to go. Distance: today 92km total 4878km. It’s 9.10pm Monday 20/2/2012 Bai Chay (Halong Bay). You know providing we were given asome teething years I think I could have a relationship with Vietnam. Contrary to our squabbles we’re growing on each other. Vietnam challenges me and although this has its unconfortable moments, it stretches the good stuff that counts. Another revelation… I have discovered coconut candies…oh my I’m chewing on one right now superbo-delishimo except its stuck in my tooth… Here’s my Vietnamese winge for the day….. They can’t signpost to save themselves!!!!!! I left the hotel at 8am and got out of Haiphong at 10.30am spitooing the most colourful language. Asking directions unfortunately didn’t help with dodgy points all from women who are off my Christmas card list. Dribble aside I actually spent 47km today having no idea where I was and following finger points which eventually got us here. I didn’t hook up with the highway until 52km later. Up to then I was on a back road even managed a ferry crossing from where to where your guess is as good as mine. It made for some interesting times today that’s for sure. It’s not my favourite space being lost but I knew I was headed to Halong according to the locals so I rolled with it. I met some cool lads on the ferry crossing. They were giving me a hard time to start with until I smashed them back. After a few shocked faces they laughed and we shared some friendly space. So that’s what I have to do. Give them shi#. I can do that. 21 years in the police service mostly with men refined that skill set 🙂 The ride into Halong was good once on the highway. The scenery soon changed and the limestone karst country started literally popping up behind the rice fields. The sun even came out, a bit hazy but out nonetheless. According to lonely planet, Halong means ‘where the dragon descends into the sea. Legend says that the islands of Halong Bay were created by a great dragon that lived in the mountains. As it ran towards the coast, it’s flailing tail gouged out valleys and crevases as it plunged into the sea, the areas dug up by its tail became filled with water, leaving only pockets of highland visible. ‘ This time of year (February to April) is usually cold and drizzly but today was ok and forecast the same tomorrow so everything crossed. I have a 6hr boat trip booked – it’s pretty budget but hey I’m there and that’s what counts. There’s a comment on the blog from a friend of mine who has travelled this area. Eileen added ‘were told the area used to be full of household rubbish from people living in their boats on the bay, until they bought in a system to pay the locals by the boat load of collected rubbish. Now it’s a world listed pristine national park!’ Halong city is an odd set up. It’s all touristy on one side and Vietnamese on the other joined by a huge suspension bridge. Being a tourist destination everythings a bit more expensive. There’s a photo of one of the accomodation options I found 🙂The budget isn’t that desperate yet. It has got a kinda meteora Greek mystic about it don’t you think? xxxxx I headed out tonight to have a look around hence the late post. Of course one look at the bridge and had to be ontop. So I found my way there and back without getting too lost. Great views and photos. I’m very happy to be here and looking forward to seeing what we can tomorow. Be talking very soon. This is a pretty cool place to spend the last days with Vietnam. Talk soon x

Post # 68 Haimphong

Day 81 999 days to go. Distance: today 114km total 4784. It’s 6.45pm Sunday 19/2/2012 Haiphong. We’re under the 1000 day mark how cool’s that. Still a long way to go but a nice milestone yay. I’ve found the cutest inner district of Haiphong to stay the night. Accidentally of course. I was on my way to the port to check out boats to Cat Ba but it was another 20km. I didn’t start until midday today so it was 5.00pm when I arrived and a bit chilly. 20km on top of the day already in the ‘chill bill’ wasn’t tempting so time to stop. The guesthouse is so cute down this little alley and the lady runs it very homestyle can’t do enough to make me feel welcome very nice and easy to take. I just got out of the shower and it was the first time that the hot water was still hot. So after washing three times, brushing my teeth and generally scolding myself I got out all toasty, rugged up and now posting to you fine folk. I love this time of the day. All squeaky clean after a good days cycle and thinking about the day to share with you. I started the day with a skype with the folks which was great. They were keen to know how I got on with Rube’s trailer. I’m very very very and another very pleased to let you know she did all good today and the angle grinding effort by my quasi engineer buddy seems so far to be doing the trick yayayayayaya and more yayayayayaya’s. I’m having an on again off again relationship with the Vietnamese I’m sure of it 🙂 Just when I think it’s over someone pulls out something beautiful like last night. I was thinking about it today the events yesterday and how they ended so well I’m also very mindful I have to cross the Chinese border no later than the 22/2/201 before the visa expires so there was no hanging around longer than needed in Hanoi. My experience with the Vietnamese is that when they step in with guns blazing and I feel pushed aside in their forthrightnesses. I’m learning to be assertive as opposed to pissed off, to ensure things are done as I need them to be. Particularly when it comes to Rube. When they’re rough with her mother pussy cat wants to eat them alive. That’s how her axil got bent when she was hosed coming into hanoi. they dropped her hard while I was de-mudding. And then the gorgeous man last night volunteers the best help ever. The affair continues 🙂 After talking to the folks I needed to calculate days left in vietnam. I head to haloing bay tomorrow. From there I think I will catch a bus or hydrofoil to the chinese border town of Mong Cai. The bays between here and China are apparently beautiful so the boat option sounds pretty tempting subject to cost with the bus a backup. I’m a bit reluctant to expose Rube to a bus trip before China as she has a haul ahead and needs all her bits in good order after her spit polish in Hanoi. We’ll see tomorrow but sounds like a plan. I’m happy just to have her and the trailer working 🙂 The ride here was excellent cycling conditions. Weather was overcast and cold but no rain or wind. The highway was wide with room for us to do our thing amongst the loads of buses taking folk between here and Hanoi. Given the busy road the amount of ‘hellos’ I got from passer byers was awesome. Always a welcomed momentum boost yay. I stopped and bought some bread from a roadside vendor man who was all smiles when I handed over $1 for four baguettes. Black teeth didn’t dampen his enthusiasm for a photo 🙂 Otherwise the day went pretty quick. It was good to be back in the saddle again doing descent k’s. When i have rest days the body goes into this whole extra fluid thing to recoup. On the flip side it then gets rid of the extra fluid when I star again. This means lots of bathroom stops. The tricky bit is finding discrete spots along the highway to do your thing. As such there were a few tense moments over the day 🙂 I feel so much better on the move. The body prefers to be active that’s for sure. I had a halfway stop at a bus interchange place. This man from one of the vending shops came up to check me and Rube out as they do. He was all full of cheek and mischief. No English of course but I got the general gist of his good natured naughtiness. He was entertaining to share the break with. So that was a about it for the day. Time for dinner I’m thinking and an early night and start tomorrow. Talk soon x

Post # 67 Back in Hanoi

Day 80 1000 days to go. Distance: today 40km total 4670km. It’s 9.15pm Saturday the 18/2/2012 Still in Hanoi. Oh man!!!!!!!! So the short and curly of a long story is that Rubes rear axil pin has been bent and needed replacement. I didn’t realize the impact of this until we stopped for our first break today 20kms into it, and the rear axil that holds her trailer popped out when I parked. I put in back in place and it did it again so problems. We headed back to Hanoi to have access to shops and services to try and sort something out. The problem is that the trailer comes with it’s customized rear wheel pin and hooks that the trailer connects to. I had time to think about options on the ride back which went from finding a new axil pin to having to buy a new set up to having to go home. I went back to the hotel and took Rube apart to see what we needed. I went to the bike man to see if he had a axil pin that would do the trick. Luckily he had a large quick release pin that the trailer hooks fitted on. Back at the hotel I tried the trailer on but the quick release lever didn’t allow the hooks to go on by 2 millimeters max. I was on the footpath trying to work out how to make it fit and thought that if I could shave off the millimeters with an angle grinder that may work. This fella from next door came up and I explained to him my idea. Next thing he’s come back with an angle grinder and was into it. It fits so hoping hoping hoping it lasts under constant use and pressure we’ll see starting again tomorrow. It least we can start so we’ll see. Keep everything crossed for us. Another ‘helped by a local big time.’ How lovely and humbling and very lucky girls. For now it’s bed and back into it tomorrow. Talk soon hopefully on route to Haloing Bay. x

Post # 66 Hanoi

Day 79 1001 days to go. Distance: yesterday 42km today 37km total 4630km. It’s 5.40pm Friday 17/2/2012Hanoi. I’m sitting in an internet café where he Vietnamese kids just love their computer games. They are so into it. This has been across where I’ve been and there’s never a dull moment in these cafes as hey play ‘shoot ‘em up’ network games against each other and it’s on!! One good thing is that the child next o me doesn’t smell of urine. The other good thing is that the computers in these places are all super fast to cope with the HD games so it makes it for great downloading for my part. Hi there fromHanoi. I’ve had two days here firstly yesterday to do some ‘have-to’s and today for Rube and I to enjoy having a ride and look around. The city is a huge capital so we have only marginally dinted to get a snap shot but it’s been fun. Yesterday my jobs were to get Rube serviced, make contact with SOS Vietnam who has an office here inHanoi, and to find a Big C supermarket to stock up supplies. What an unfortunate name for a food chain hey? But they do have the stuff I’m after and the cheapest yummiest bread that sells straight out of the oven with folk lined up to grab their share of baguettes. At 4000 dong a bargain (20c). I started the day yesterday with a skype date with my partner which is always a beautiful start to the day. After this I did some internet checks and found the addresses for the Big C and a bike shop both on the other side of town across the red River. I was unsure where The hotel was in relation to the map I had. I did a check on Google maps and it came up showing my exact location. Isn’t that amazing? I worked out where I was and then headed into town. The city is a maize of one way streets definitely nooo grid system J What this meant was lots and lots and more lots of stopping and asking directions from locals. The help I got was great with some even drawing me mud maps. I managed to find the bike shop that specialized in brand name bikes and bugger me bugger bugger poo bottom – it was shut poo spitoo-eeey!!! I stood there willing the doors to open and this lad came out of another shop. He called the number on the window and gave me an address I assumed where I could find the person who worked there or another shop. While I was over that side of town I went to the supermarket for a fix and shop then back over the bridge to try find this other address. Two hours later gave up to save some sanity. Riding amongst the traffic is so full on. The book says it’s nothing like Saigon like hell!!!! It’s fuller on again with respect to the volume of traffic. Yesterday I learnt very quickly that you had to keep your hands on the inside of your handle bars as you are constantly rubbing/hitting handle bars of mopeds weaving amongst the traffic. It hurts to have your fingers pinched between so it took me twice to catch on. I usually say I’m a slow learner but no so in this case. Pain’s a good learning tool or an effective one at least J I stopped off at the Information centre to find out where the SOS office was as I couldn’t find the District on he map or on google maps. She was no help and just said it was way out of town. Thanks for that!!! Instead I sent them an email introducing myself and explaining our intent. As yet I haven’t heard from them so I’ll send them another email before I head tomorrow basically asking permission to raise some $ for them. It should just be a formality we’ll see. I suppose it relies on someone the other end being able to read English which I have assumed is the case but maybe not. Otherwise I can ‘Babelfish’ a translation and include that as well. Back to the bike shop debacle. Rube and I decided to drop the shopping back at the hotel and have a break from the chaos before reassessing what to do. The problem was being one way streets I couldn’t go back the way we came and got soooooo lost. I didn’t realize how lost I was until this woman came out and showed me where we were. Oh dear and I hope to cycle around the world!!! We were now back on track but with frowny frowns on as we had no idea how to organize a quality health check for the girl. As you know the shops are right on the street literally. We were waiting at this set of lights still frowning when I spotted flash helmets from the corner of my eye and low and behold there was a bike shop selling good grade components and this old fella servicing two brand racers on the footpath. This was about 1 meter away from us. So we cheered and stepped off the road and parked to wait our turn. If we hadn’t got lost I would never had found this shop and I haven’t seen one like it in our travels. I cheered and gave him and the other men waiting the thumbs up and took happy snaps literally yay. When it was out turn he gave her an all over check up while I held her hand as she was a bit frighties poor love J He found the rear cable levers were kaput and had another set there for $30. He also found that the back brakes pads had warn right down but didn’t have any to replace. I was able to explain I had some back at the hotel so he leant me his bike to go pick Rube’s first aid kit up. I got there and back somehow in one piece don’t ask it was peak hour and eeeeeowwwww!!! 2 1/2 hours later the girl is shining again with new bits that we got used to today and love them. It’s also a bonus to have brakes J It only cost $5 labor for that time crazy so all up we did pretty well I reckon and very happy ending. I was a bit late but still managed to keep my skype date with he folks. I literally debriefed the day on them poor darlings then took a deep breath and was good. Thank you Ma and Pa xxoo Today we headed out to enjoy Hanoi. The city’s an enmeshed mish mash of old and new typified in the old quarter. It’s a classic old part of town with narrow alleys and a myriad of streets. The lonely planets quotes, ‘A mass of motorbikes swarms through the tangled web of streets that is the old quarter, a cauldron of commerce for almost 1000 years.’ How articulately described and spot on!!!! We spent the majority of our time in here as it was enticing once you got amongst it. It was also the best people watching place and with it’s size and maize outsiders got swallowed up so it had no tourist trap residual. Right up my old town alley yay !!!!!! The book took us through a cycle of the city highlights and focused mostly on the old town. The city otherwise is grand and green with a number of lakes and parklands dotted throughout. It is tree lined with most streets having a leafy canopy. The buildings are layered French colonial architecture which beautifully compliments the green city look. There are many museums and temples but we stuck to the street views and people watching poking amongst the craziness which was entertaining and interesting in itself. I tried to take lots of pickies to capture our day which have finished uploading now. It’s time to finish up there and attach the photos from he last days of posts. On towards Haloing Bay tomorrow. Talk soon x PS I’ve included two poems from the last days nothing about Hanoi but they fell out of my head so what the hay!!!!

Beautiful is passion
inside out
right way about.
You are shining
with a sun inside your heart.

Fashionable beauty
inside out
right way about.
You are styling
your design inside your heart.

************

Where did I leave you
this time round?
In a box or on the shelf?
I found you where I left you
waiting patient in the mirror
for me to smile back.
‘I’ll hang around
this time round.
We’re safer on your face
smiling together.’

Post # 65 Hanoi

Day 77 1003 days to go. Distance: today 121km total 4551km. It’s 9.05pm Wednesday 15/2/2012 Hanoi. Can you believe it, as I cycled out of Cuc Phuong National Park this morning it started raining. Was I meant to be at CucPhuong or what? It stopped raining as I arrived and started as soon I left. I just think that’s so great. Thank you mother nature. I soaked up all I could over the 2 days. You even let me pack my gear up this morning without raining on me, you rock!!!! Rube and I had a long cycle to Hanoi rained the whole way and we were very wet muddy girls. We looked like something that crawled out of the black lagoon blink blink. Swamp monsters both of us but I think Rube’s trailer topped us all. We all needed a serious hosing before arriving and asking to stay someone. About 10km from town I spotted a car detailer or the Vietnamese version of one at least. It’s a popular money maker to clean mopeds and vehicles and the occasional bicycle and the very occasional Aussie. So for $2 we got de-dirtied. Perfect!!!! I would have taken a pre/post photo if I had thought but we were on a mission and serious filthy factor going on 🙂 We dripped our way into Hanoi and found a hotel for $12 a night such a bargain. I was headed for the hostel and just thought I’d chefck at a few places. Mostly they were $20-25 as the Lonely Planet had said for a similar standard where Ive been staying. This one or some reason was cheaper and wifi so I’m blissfully happy yay. We’re in a bit of a seedy area but it’s colorful 🙂 Two nights now in Hanoi apparently the jewel of south east asia so we’ll get into it tomorrow. Not before a skype date with my partner at 7am yayayayayayayayaya. It took me 1 1/2 hours to clean the clothes from the last days. Ive set up one of the tent ropes and got the ceiling fan on so we’re in industrial cleaning mode. We’re in excellent spirits from he last couple of days and ready for Hanoi. Nothing like some environmental therapy to top up the soul awesome. Looking forward to sharing Hanoi with you. One of my jobs tomorrow is to upload the photos from the last days so I’m onto it. Time for dinner. Big bowel of 2 minute noodles yum. Talk soon x